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A Shopping Tanguera's Guide to Buenos Aires:
Tango Shoes
Clothes
Music
Restaurants
Street Fairs
Shopping Areas
General Shopping Information:
The normal shopping hours in BA are Monday-Friday 9a-10p and Saturday 9a-1p, although malls usually are open every day 10a-11p.
Keep your receipts! Included in the price of an item there is a purchase tax, known as IVA (Impuesto de Valor Agregado). It's on everything except food and medication, and was a hefty 21% as of 03/06.
If you spend more than $200 in a tax free store (identified by the 'Tax Free Shopping' logo, usually in the window), you can get a VAT refund at the airport. Before leaving Argentina, show your receipts at the return desk for a refund.
Good luck, and happy shopping!
Have something to add? I'd love to put it up. Let me know!
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Tango Shoes:
Comme il Faut (Arenales 1239, Puerta 3):
My personal favorite. Comme il Faut is legendary for its line of outrageously sexy and amazingly comfortable tango shoes.
This place is great, because you have to go down a little French-ish side alley/street, go up some winding stairs, and ring a buzzer to get in, very secret agent-like. The door opens on a small airy viewing room with a lot of leopard print. This is where you sit while the shoes are brought to you to try on. They don't bother trying to display of all of the different shoe styles they have in stock because the styles turnover so quickly, and they usually only bring you a few models at a time, so if you have something specific in mind, let them know.
Remember that while at Comme il Faut, time moves more slowly, so relax and enjoy the experience. Just a warning, Argentine shops aren't known for great customer service, and Comme il Faut is no exception. But don't worry, it's not personal.
Susana Artesenal (Anchorena 537):
Susana Artesenal is interesting because it is very near the intersection of Calle Carlos Gardel and Anchorena, which has become a kind of tango tourist trap with lots of fun (and moderately expensive) tango momentos for sale.
Susana Artesenal has a lot of traditional styles of shoes, lots of black and red standards, and a good selection of chunkier heels, but nothing really caught my eye the day I went.
Madreselva (Corrientes 3190):
The Madreselva Tango Boutique is located on the 3rd floor of the Abasto Plaza Hotel. It's small, but has a nice selection of shoes with fun colors/patterns, interesting heels, and the trademark M on the back of the shoe. Also has some clothes, but not much. The shoes are on the narrow side, so nothing really fit me, but a friend swears by them.
NeoTango (Sarmiento 1938):
NeoTango is fun because they have their entire line out on the floor, just like a department store but a lot smaller, so you can see what they have right away. Similar to Comme il Faut in styles, but less expensive. Some people find that one or the other brand of shoes fit their feet better. Lots of flashy, sexy shoes, as well as some more demure and sophisticated styles, with all different heel heights.
Carlos, the Shoemaker (4687-6026):
If you know exactly what you want, but can't find it in the stores, go to this guy. I haven't used him personally, but I've seen his work, and it's good.
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Tango Clothes:
DNI (Corrientes 2140):
DNI is a dance studio with a dance shop attached. The relaxed little shop is stuffed with tango clothes and shoes, including some very unique high heeled dance sneakers.
Sexo Opuesto (Corrientes 3058):
Down the street from DNI, and a block away from Madreselva, this clothing store has a lot of hip tango-able clothes, especially for men. They have pants!
Mimi Pinzon (Maza 507 3rd Floor B):
You'll need to call ahead to make an appointment for a viewing (4932-0946). I haven't been, but was told it's mostly fancy, show tango kinds of things. If you go, tell me what it's like!
Women's Bathrooms (Various Milongas):
You never know what you'll find in there.
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Tango Music:
Zivals (Av. Callao 395):
Prepare to spend several hours in this tango music haven. Tango cds average about $5 a piece, so it's easy to get carried away. Have fun!
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Restaurants:
The Argentine's working day usually begins between 8a and 9a, and there is a traditional "siesta" at around 2p, which means that if you want to eat lunch in a restaurant, get in there before 2p. In the afternoon, businesses reopen from 4p to 8p.
Dinner is pretty late by North American standards; usually around 10p. It's not uncommon to have dinner reservations for midnight! Restaurants typically open for dinner at 9p and stay open as late as 2am.
Expect to tip about 10%.
La Cholita (Rodriguez Pena 1165, Recoleta):
My favorite parilla. And everyone else's, too, so either make a reservation or go early (9p is early). Be prepared for a wait of at least an hour if you show up between 10p-12a.
Try the amazing bife de lomo, or, if you prefer, the bife de chollo. Fantastic selection of Argentine wines as well, especially the San Telmo Malbec.
~ $15/per person for dinner w/ wine & dessert.
Bio Restaurant (Humboldt 2199, Palermo Viejo):
Bio was highly recommended by several people for good vegetarian/organic food. We had a yummy lunch there, so I'm passing on the recommendation. Super fresh ginger lemonade.
Closed on Mondays.
~ $5 for lunch/ $10 for dinner.
Rave (Gorriti 5092, Palermo):
Megan Pingree recommended this restaurant, but I didn't have a chance to go. I trust her, though.
Tikal Chocolates (Honduras 4890, Palermo):
Ok, so this place isn't really a restaurant, but who cares? It's worth a visit. Trust me. Organic chocolate with yummy flavors, including the ubiquitous dulce de leche, plus ice cream!
Another recommendation from Megan, so you know you can trust her.
El Ateneo (Av. Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta):
This cafe in a bookstore is truly breathtaking, and an inspirational example of recycling an unused space without erasing the history of the building. The space was originally a theater with historical ties to tango (Gardel often performed there in it's heyday), and has been beautifully converted into a bookstore, with reading areas in the balcony seats, and a cafe in the old stage area. It's amazing.
Not bad food, either.
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Street Fairs:
Feria de Palermo Viejo (Plaza Cortazar, Palermo Viejo):
Saturdays & Sundays, 11a-8p
Small and sweet, this art fair hosts an assortment of local artists with paintings, jewelry, and doodads. There is also a little independent designer area open above one of the cafes that opens onto the plaza, so keep an eye out if you're interested in that sort of thing.
Check out the area surrounding the fair, too.
Feria de San Telmo (Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo):
Sundays, 10a-5p
The fair for antiques enthusiasts. Nice sized independent designer area, too.
El Indio also performs here, as well as a few other folks who offer tango lessons on the street corner and such. There's also a tango guitar player who sells his cds while he plays for a tango couple dancing for tips.
If something catches your eye in one of the booths, be prepared to bargain. Next to football/soccer, (and flirting), it's the national pastime.
Feria de Recoleta (Plaza Intendente Alvear/Francia, Recoleta):
Saturdays and Sundays, 11a-6p.
Known affectionately as "the hippie fair," this fair is huge! Located right outside of the Centro Cultural and next to the Recoleta Cemetery, not to mention several fancy shopping streets, you could easily spend a couple of days exploring this area.
The fair itself has lots of live music and entertainment, along with the prerequisite jewelry and knickknack booths, but no independent designer area that I could find.
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Shopping Areas:
Calle Florida:
Huge pedestrian shopping street in the center of the city. Touristy, but better the closer you get to Av. Santa Fe.
Av. Santa Fe:
One of the main city streets, everything you could possibly need is located somewhere on this street. Except maybe tango shoes. Starting at Calle Florida, the shops start out pretty spendy, then become less expensive once you pass Av. Callao and head towards Palermo. It's a long walk, though, so be prepared if you plan on doing the whole thing.
Recoleta:
Beautiful area, very European, very rich. This is where all of the famous designers have their shops. There's also a completely random punk-like mall with a bunch of piercing/tattoo shops and black clothes with metal studs at the corner of Santa Fe and Rodriguez Pena. Strange, dirty, and cool.
Palermo Viejo:
Great area crammed with small shops for up and coming designers. Really fun. Described as the SoHo of BA, this is where I spent most of my shopping time, just wandering around. Check out the area surrounding the Plaza Cortazar, or pick up a free Mapa Naranja (Orange Map) at one of the shops for guidance.
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